Melbourne - A Homecoming of Sorts

When Darren and I recently sat down to plan for our trip towards the end of the year, the topic of travelling to the same place cropped up twice. His suggestion to return to a destination we had previously been to really got me thinking: would we still get that similar satisfaction from travelling to somewhere unknown? How fulfilling in terms of interest and in the name of exploration could we derive out of that experience? The innate desire in me to explore every nook and cranny of this incredibly vast planet of ours just keeps crawling at my skin. After all, why return to an old haunt when collecting new stamps on my passport proved much more appealing, the list goes on and on. There are however a few exceptions to this rule - Greece, India, Indonesia and Marrakesh, just to name off the top of my head. Then there's the proverbial home of mine, the place I spent the better of two years of my life.

Going back to Melbourne felt natural to me. Though the two years of staying apart from love, family and my life was a heartache on its own, would I go through it all again? Yes and in a heartbeat. It is probably a testament to how badly I wanted to experience living independently abroad despite the hefty student-loan tab that caught up with me. Now, Melbourne has always been a place that fascinates me. The fact that it has been ranked the most liveable city sixth year in a row by Economist's global liveability survey stakes its claim. But really, what sets this metropolis above the rest? No, we are not talking about the World Naked Bike Run that takes over Melbourne annually, nor are we talking about the collection of pre-loved shoes dangling across power lines that somehow manages to pass of as art installations. We dig this city because of how much culture means to them. From the regular graffiti along Hoiser lane or the massive mural of Kanye, Taylor and Kim in bed in response to 'Famous', the city sits tete-a-tete with us for their amazing ode to all things pop culture. Their amazing live music scene is also another topic of contention and its incredible loved cafe culture, it is easy to understand why Melbourne is where we envision retiring in, there is never nothing to do in this city.

Early this year in March, I finally returned to Melbourne for the very first time since my graduation three years ago and bunked in with my dear friend for a week. We spent our afternoons visiting our Alma mater, sitting on the lawn with our favourite crepes, wrapped in a cone with its warm gooey goodness that fit perfectly in the palm of our hands. It certainly brought back good old memories from our college days, those days in particular when we would snuggle in thick woolly jumpers during winter talking shop.

Darren came to join me midway through the trip, with plans to take a rental car out to the Grampians. The three-hour long road trip was tough on Darren who had just picked up the rental from his flight over but two's a good crowd and we drove with windows down music blazing to Triple-J. What was truly exciting was our accommodation for the night – a glamping experience that is true-to-nature yet with that added touch of luxury, an idea that we have been toying with for a long time now. Just imagine sleeping in a bell tent with a front-row view of the woods and the gentle flow of the creek just 10 metres away. Knackered from the long ride, we settled in with Indian takeaway from the restaurant down the road with naan and paneer butter masala for the night.

For the rest of the trip, we made our base in a little quaint AirBnB apartment on the corner of Prahran Street. It certainly did help that our host and resident dog, Elvis, were so welcoming to the point that we did not want to leave our homely abode. As a Christmas treat for the beau, I got tickets to James Vincent McMorrow for the both of us as a surprise. He has been moaning on and on about how amazing JVM is live and to finally share that experience at the Melbourne Recital Centre with the echo of his angelic voice bouncing over the roofs, it was some visual and aural treat. It didn’t take long for ‘One Thousand Times’ to be the soundtrack of our trip and we would coincidentally break into song in the middle of the day and giggle ourselves silly.

By chance the Moomba Festival was in town over the same weekend, a large display of colourful carnival rides, food trucks and arcade toss games. It was fascinating to watch Darren wander off around with wild-eyed wonder until he pushed me onto a swing ride that launched us into a dizzy of thrill and exhilaration. When the night came to an end, we edged along the Yarra River home, away from the city lights of Melbourne, fingers entwined, and we couldn’t help but feel that heavy tinge of nostalgia of the incredible times we have had in Melbourne. We can’t really put a finger on when we will be back but Melbourne has and always will be in our hearts, this we know.

I have compiled a list of some of my favourite spots from my time in Melbourne. Some of them might be places that have been scratched off the guidebooks but they hold a special place in my heart. Do feel free to share about what you love in this vibrant and diverse city in the comments section below. We would love to hear from you!

Eat:

Carlton

• Carte Crepes, Parkville VIC 3010, Australia

Carte Crepes is a creperie right smack in the center of University of Melbourne, specialising in amazing sweet crepes from the lamington (melted dark chocolate, raspberry grappa jam and coconut) to the snickers (melted milk chocolate, salted caramel and peanut butter) to the good ol' and personal favourite butter and sugar. These sweet delights were my weekly obsessions for which I had multiple loyalty cards to show for of my fervent passion for these crepe. It may sound excessive but it is with reason. These top notch treats were that addictive.

• Milk the Cow, 323 Lygon St, Carlton VIC 3053

Ah, Milk the Cow. We confessed. We went loco loco on this one. A gem of a place with a late night license that serves a large array of sensational cheeses (Over 150 to be exact). We came here on two consecutive nights and ordered the cheeseboard and cheese fondue with beer which was mind-blowing to say the least. I was big on the bellavitano raspberry (a rich, creamy cheese soaked in tart raspberry ale) that they served on the 4-cheese platter. If you are still finding it hard to decide, the staff at Milk the Cow are well-versed in nature's very own and would be more than happy to answer any cheesy queries of yours.

• Lambs, 100 Lygon St, Carlton VIC 3053

This place has been a saving grace for late nights or early mornings for you wild cats. They happen to serve one of the best souvlakis we have ever had. Juicy roasted meat tucked into a bed of lettuce, onions and a dollop of tzatziki wrapped in a pita bread, it is no surprise that this place has established quite a reputation within the shift-work community, so don't be surprised to see handymen and cabbies sharing a table with the party crowd. Your takeaway from this article is Lambs on Lygon, if any, the prices has been on a steady uprise since my first visit in 2014.

Fitzroy

• Grub Food Van, 87-89 Moor St, Fitzroy VIC 3065

I stumbled onto Grub by chance while making my way to Fitzroy from Carlton and haven't stop returning ever since. What pulled me in through the doors was the eponymous mid-60's airstream van that serves up coffee. I later found out that airstream van was purchased by the owners of Grub on eBay and has been a permanent fixture since. The indoor seating housed within a greenhouse was a charm on its own and satiated my fetish for succulents. A ping-pong table right in the middle for bored diners or competitive couples (like us) were there for any takers while waiting for their food to be served. Watch out for the straying balls flying through the air... you have been warned! The eclectic and quirky atmosphere is rounded up with a mix of pre-loved furniture and chairs with crocheted blankets on them. If you observe your surroundings carefully, you will spy a garden gnome or two watching you eat (they are friendly I promise!) The menu is seasonal and constantly changes but regardless expect a homely and sumptuous feast at Grub. Maybe let's just keep this spot on the down-low?

• Lune Croissanterie, 119 Rose St, Fitzroy VIC 3065

If you want to know what the best croissants in the world taste like, this is the place to be. Don't take it from me - the queues that snake around the industrial space before dawn are enough adjectives to express their popularity. The croissants crisp on the exterior and buttery on the inside has managed to stay true to its traditional French flavour and its layers of crunch with each bite is certainly no hyperbole. We have had friends who would make the 5am trek to queue for these croissants while they were still serving from a meager-sized bakery in Elwood. The croissants don't come cheap at AUD8.50 a piece, but they live up to its hype and may be the finest croissants you can find without skipping town to France. I will let these croissants speak for themselves.

Richmond

• Top Paddock, 658 Church St, Richmond VIC 3121

Melbourne is synonymous with brunch and Top Paddock is the epitome of that true Melbourne brunch experience. Darren and I unanimously agreed that Top Paddock was that cafe in Australia that ticked all the boxes for creativity, quality ingredients and on point execution. We have always made it a point to return for their berries and ricotta hotcakes which has made its frequent rounds on Instagram and even as an inspired creation at Paddy Hills and Curious Palette in Singapore. The only downside is in the ever-present queues on the weekends. Our advice? Come on a weekday.

Prahran

• Fourth Chapter, 385 High St, Prahran VIC 3181

Fourth Chapter is a relatively new opening serving up a wellness-based menu that is my kind of jam. Sharing the Prahran district with Victoria Gardens, the serenity of the neighbourhood matches its laid back vibe. On paper, its menu which includes the soy-glazed barramundi with black rice balls was somewhat uninspired and unconvincing. But what appeared on the table packed as much flavour as they primed themselves up to be. And of course the brunch spot had its guilty pleasures with the right makings to turn any diet inside out - we picked our teeth on peanut butter s’more waffles and it was the just desserts we deserved.

City

• Higher Ground, 650 Little Bourke St, Melbourne VIC 3000

Less than a year after cutting its teeth in the center of the city, the cafe has found itself on higher grounds alongside the more established names like Hardware Societe. Founded in the shell of a former power station, light streams in through the quaint arched windows positioned across the soaring three-storey high ceiling, while the architecture impresses on sight, its menu is worth a shout as well since it shares most of the creative and culinary lineup behind Top Paddock.​

• Rose Garden, 435 Elizabeth St, Melbourne VIC 3000, Australia

Don't mock us. We love our Asian food and this no-frills Chinese joint serves up one of the most satisfying plate of crispy pork omelette on rice. We have glorified this shop quite a bit with our return week after week to sort our Asian food craving. A personal favourite of mine is the spicy green beans with minced chicken on rice but really any off the menu works for us (my church mates absolutely swear by their spicy chicken ribs). This spot along the University stretch is no longer a hidden secret but just sit happy in the queues and take in the familiar intonations of our Asian neighbours.

North Melbourne

• Auction Room, 103-107 Errol St, North Melbourne VIC 3051

This cafe is always worth a mention. Before moving to Carlton, I used to stay in the North Melbourne precinct and would find myself exploring the neighbourhood during the weekend and sometimes, weekdays after class. Somehow, one way or another, I would always find myself wandering into Auction Room for a cup of hot chocolate. The location is pretty nondescript and you might find yourself walking past it if you don't pay enough attention. The food has always been consistent with their breakfast board or Arepa and their service always leaves us feeling as though we are parting as friends. What with all the new cafes popping up in Melbourne, Auction Room will always be that one constant.

• Fandango, 97 Errol St, Melbourne N VIC 3051

This place has had us doing the fandango on multiple occasions for its pancakes. Let's admit it, pancakes are the blanket food of the world and the pancakes here have served their glorious life purpose in my tummy. They usually come with honeyed cream cheese, roasted rhubarb, pickled strawberries and maple syrup served in a triple stack. It makes you question how a simple combination of eggs, flour and sugar could produce such a sterling creation. Don't skimp on the maple syrup as well! At the end of the meal, you will be second-guessing, perhaps the real reason scaramouche won't do the fandango is because he has been deprived of these delectable pancakes.

South Yarra

• Darling Cafe, 2 Darling St, South Yarra VIC 3141

Having seen snapshots of this place making the rounds on socials in Singapore, I have already had my order planned out even before touching down on Australian soil. My order of a stack of sticky date pancakes topped with butterscotch ice-cream, fresh berries and malted crumble, and my friend's order of their famed peanut butter waffles was what satisfied our sweet tooth - the presentation was arguably on point, showing off their confidence and creativity with ingredients and flavours. To top it off, our order of the Thomas Edison smoothie came aptly in an oversized lightbulb, squeezing strawberry, mango and guava into an icy delight. They do serve a contemporary Asian-inspired menu for lunch and you can bet I'm plotting my menu for my next visit already.

Drink:

• Market Lane Coffee, Various locations

Melbourne is the coffee capital of the world and it's rightfully so, with coffee cups an essential to the average cosmopolite's outfit. Before I wax lyrical about this coffee house, I am not going to spin a tall tale, I am and have always been a tea-over-coffee sipper. I guess it should hold some weight that Market Lane Coffee at Queen Victoria Market has always been that to-go spot for me each time I find myself pining after a cup of coffee. This store doesn't deviate from its usual mix of coffee and pastries, and that somehow appeases the skeptic in me that this spot does not need frilly brunch items to make up for a poor cuppa joe.

• 1806 Cocktail Bar, 69 Exhibition St, Melbourne VIC 3000

A friend pulled me into this cocktail bar one night after dinner at Mamasita's, I immediately fell in love with the place for its quirks of being transported back in time. It is easy to see why this place is popular with the locals, even on a weekday night. The bar has an extensive list of cocktails under its belt, but if that leaves you scratching your head, the staff at the bar are more than happy to walk you through a whisky-tasting flight. Just don't be surprised if you find yourself down in the gutters the next morning with a pavement pizza on your parkway (I warned ya!)

Dessert:

• Babka Bakery, 358 Brunswick St, Fitzroy VIC 3065

I have the biggest obsession with the lemon tarts from Babka Bakery, a homely cafe along Brunswick that swings in the crowd with their Russian-inspired fare. While their meat pies and sandwiches are a hit with the locals, certainly off the radar is their lemon tarts which somehow has evaded the public eye. Simple yet decadent, the crust is crunchy and importantly does not crumble to the touch. The curd has always been something of marvel, a consistent delivery of sweet and tangy sourness with a brulee-like surface. Even though it costs an extra $0.50, get the lemon tart with a dollop of sweet cream to match and always takeaways since it's way cheaper without table service *wink.

• Doughnut Time, 5 Degraves St, Melbourne VIC 3000

We are big fans of doughnuts albeit the jam-filled sort. But on occasion, Doughnut Time would have their seasonal pickings crafted after what's IN in the city like when JB, his Purpose tour and posse were in town, resulting in the 'Justin Time' creation with custom-chocolate Calvin Klein for the man himself. Coincidentally, we rocked up to Doughnut time when Adventure Time Live were in for a live audio-visual show with their voice actors and took an Adventure Time doughnut off the shelf. The doughtnut, based off bacon pancakes makin bacon pancakes, is topped with caramelised bacon pancakes and dipped in a sugar coat of Jake's signature yellow. Someone ought to bring these bad boys to Singapore!

• Gelato Messina, Various locations

One of theest gelato you will ever sample. Nuff said.

• Pidapipò Gelateria, Various locations

The options are limited in range when compared to Messina but quality-wise, it is on par with the former and really takes one back to the modesty of a simple, honest scoop of ice-cream. Personally, I rather Pidapipo for their botanics-infused flavours like Elderflower & Lychee (a favourite of mine), Lemon & Lavender, Rose & Honey nougats, it's hard to resist. After first pickings, complement your scoop with honeycomb and organic, edible flowers. Unfortunately, their range of series (borne out of a collaboration with beekeeping collective, Honey Fingers) is not available but check out their other flavours made on a daily-basis with quality ingredients sourced from Italian and local farmers.

Stay:

• Halls Gap Lakeside Tourist Park, 23-27 Tymna Dr, Halls Gap VIC 3381

If you are looking for an adventure out in the wilderness to get away from the office cubicle, a trip to Halls Gap is worth the drive. Like the cool sister to the Great Ocean Road with a completely laid-back demeanour, the hilly terrains are home to warm and friendly residents willing to open up their home to anyone willing to stay. We laid our tents out at the Halls Gap Lakeside Tourist Park, a camping ground which has cabin lodges and powered sites for RVs. Ok fine, we did not have to knock in any pegs since we were lodging in one of their bell tents that had a Mediterranean theme and was full on luxury. It took Darren some time to get used to the surrounding outdoors since he is a city boy through and through - after hearing some ruffling outside the tent at 5 in the AM, the poor boy thought burglars were trying to get in and I had to swat him away in my sleepy stupor, "it's just kangaroos honey", and plopped right back in bed. I wasn't sure if that comforted him in any way but when I asked him the next morning if he would entertain this thought again, his reply was an absolute yes.

Shop:

• Camberwell Sunday Market, Market Pl, Camberwell VIC 3124

Flea markets are always a hit and miss for their unpredictability. Love them or hate them, Sunday afternoons of shopping without the actual splurge are a comfort of mine - I must say I get quite a kick out of homing on great deals and engaging in a war of pricing and economics. My proudest purchase thus far has been a working typewriter that left me shorn of ten bucks, I find behind each item at the markets is a tangible piece of history and I enjoy lapping in the backstory of them all. Aside from vendors hawking their pre-loved wares, Camberwell Sunday Market is high on the list for their food trailers as well (catching Darren's eyes more than a couple of times), hot dogs or jelly donuts straight from the fryer, it sure feels like a walk in history.

• Queen Victoria Market, 513 Elizabeth St, Melbourne VIC 3000

Unlike the shoddy and wet markets of Singapore, markets in Australia have always maintained its high standards with a curated and high-quality selection of farm produce from the surrounding lands. On my weekly trips to Queen Victoria Market, I would pick up my usual round of fresh produce and Cheese & Spinach boreks form the corner store in the deli section of the market. In the market, you will find pockets of life in here - store owners engaging with customers, singers busking, strangers sharing a table and occasionally about their purchases. If you are travelling in winter, the morning markets come to life in the night with their Winter Wednesday nights - entertain yourself with mulled wine, hot cider, tarot card readers and silent discos.

• Readings, 309 Lygon St, Carlton, Melbourne VIC 3053

This really shouldn't be on the list out of spite from the many times I had to literally pull Darren from the shelves of the many books. From what Darren has been raving about, this award-winning book store is a favourite of his for its curated selection of literary treasures with re-imagined book covers. The store also stocks a premium selection of rare vinyl records, I remembered Darren squealing when he found The National's High Violet on purple vinyl when scouring through the store. Even though Readings has a few outlets around town, the one at Lygon Street has a much cushier vibe from being housed in the roomy European-styled shophouses of Little Italy.

Do:

• Coburg Drive-In Cinema, 155 Newlands Rd, Coburg North VIC 3058

The drive-in cinemas have been something we have dreamed of since watching the Flintstones back in the day. Without the yabbadabbadoo-ness, drive-in cinemas has always been on our checklist each time we get a rental from the city. It really isn't that hard making a little passion pit of your own at the drive-ins, just throw in a few pillows, blankets, two trays of pizzas, a ton of snacks and you are all settled. Darren and I have rolled ourselves into a couple of drive-ins but the one in Coburg has been a favourite of ours for its accessible location (there's another one at Dandenong that's just as good). Over a weekend, we rented a hatchback and retracted the rear seats for some of the best seats in the house for Logan. Although we admittedly grew out of superhero flicks, just the experience of huddling in the cold in the trunk of your car makes for precious memories. You can even draw out some lawn chairs and have them right outside the car, but why do that when you can stay in and knock back a cold one. The quality of the film at Coburg is determined by how well your car's stereo system holds up, but when was drive-ins about the movie anyway? (if you get what I mean)

• Astor Theatre, Corner of Chapel St & Dandenong Rd, St. Kilda

Nothing like the 4K projection you see on the IMAX screens, detail and sound will be part of the sacrifice when you trade in for a seat at the Astor Theatre. The long-standing single screen theatre is an absolute favourite of ours: their double feature films for the price of one seems to be the best value in all of Melbourne. I remember catching Pretty in Pink and Ferris Bueller's Day off back-to-back and having the impeccably-dressed ushers showing us to our seats with their handy torch in the Art-Deco styled monument. And as big fans of the 80's chick flick movement, the theatre is the only spot to catch those moving pictures we were just too young to catch on the big screen. Just a few years ago, the lights almost went down on the theatre when the proprietors had a dispute with the landlord over its future as a cinema, the city struck back with protests, boycotts and a non-negotiable demand for the theatre to stay and the rest is history. Years later, the projector is still running at the Astor Theatre and let's pray it never stops.

• Moonlight Cinema, Royal Botanic Gardens' Central Lawn, South Yarra

As suckers for novelties and full-time movie buffs, the Moonlight Cinema really hits it home for their off-kilter location right on the central lawn in the Royal Botanic Gardens. It is a walk to get there and when you do, it will feel like you have descended on another world. The Moonlight Cinema are a hit during the summer seasons so my advice is to get in there early since spots are all first in, best dressed.

• RollerFit, 167-175 Mt Alexander Rd, Flemington. VIC 3031

For someone who has two left feet when it comes to skating, I must have gotten a little too adventurous when I made the decision to enrol for a class at RollerFit. Doesn't working up a sweat while balancing on skates sound like the perfect exercise to burn those calories? Unfortunately, I unknowingly signed myself up for an advance class and had to sit on the sidelines as I watched the others spinning with perfect grace around the gymnasium. The instructors were nice to let me take a spin under their guidance and I even managed to pick up a little twirl. I will be back but perhaps after hitting the roller discos on a few more occasions.

• Royal Botanic Gardens Melbourne, Birdwood Ave, South Yarra VIC 3141

Springtime and picnics go hand in hand like ice cream on a warm day. I love the tranquil lakes nestled within the lush greens and rare plants of the Royal Botanic Gardens, it is a picturesque spot perfect for cuddling and a float on a dinghy if you are willing to take a punt (hey hey). For those looking for verdant relief from the concrete of the city, this is an absolute green haven.

• The Sticky Institute, 10 Campbell Arcade, Degraves Subway, Melbourne VIC 3000

If you are looking to have your brains picked, make a trip to the volunteer-run Sticky Institute to browse their many zines/fanzines on display. There's even a working area for anyone who has dreams of putting their spin on their very own indie magazine - badge machine, photocopier, there's the full works for you to work your creative juices. For the ten odd years they have been in service to the people, you can imagine the loyal following for their whimsical zine culture. Power to the zine!

• St Kilda Beach, Jacka Blvd, St Kilda, Melbourne VIC 3182

As cliche as it sounds, walking down St Kilda beach, feeding off the warmth of a cone of fries from Schnitz and chasing the sunset is quite the momentous experience when put together. Each day, the sky transforms from a pomegranate pink to a subtle purple before exploding into a brilliant orange. If you are planning to stay back and watch the penguins waddle to shore from the boardwalk, pack a jacket and some fish chips from the nearby eateries - it helps to fend off the hungry seagulls, just remember to skip past their poo poo on the way out!

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